HOLLI W. HAYNIE

View from East Rim Overlook at Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area.

East Tennessee is a far cry from its western counterpart. As you take the family six hours east, the flat land of the Delta slowly gives way to thickly forested mountains teeming with wildlife. Millions of visitors travel here to see the Great Smoky Mountain National Park each summer, but if you skip the towns surrounding Knoxville, you’ll miss out on the fascinating culture and beauty of this region.

Step back in time
Forty-eight miles east of Knoxville in Morristown, I’m hypnotized by local historian Jim Claborn, who introduces himself in a sorghum slow drawl that reminds me of Mr. Haney from Green Acres.

“Hill folks will give you a riddle to test your intellect,” he warns with a whistle at the end of his words.

Then he proceeds to ask me a riddle about Tomtikumtackum having a wamwickumwackum, and sure enough, he’s lost me. But I could have listened to his Southern tales for hours, if only to hear him say things like “Davy Crockett was born in 17 and 87.”

My first stop is Crockett Tavern & Museum in Morristown. Celebrating its 50th anniversary in April, this quaint log cabin was the home of the Crockett family, kin to the legendary Davy Crockett. Glimpse into pioneer life at the tavern Davy’s parents operated in the early nineteenth century. Stone fireplaces, clever kitchen tools, and rustic parlor games like a checkerboard with corncob checkers are assembled in the Big Room. It served as a place of respite for weary travelers, though feels a bit cramped by today’s standards. And yes, you’ll find several, genuine coon skin caps the kids can try on for photos.

Homegrown goodness
There’s nothing better to this Southern gal than homegrown tomatoes, and Grainger County is the state’s largest producer of this luscious fruit. Travel to Rutledge, Tenn., home to the Grainger County Tomato Festival. Held over the weekend of July 25, it draws more than 10,000 people each year for three days of eating, entertainment, and yes, the infamous tomato wars. Many farmers in this region are promoting “agritourism,” offering visitors and school children an opportunity to learn how farms operate and to pick their own produce, which supports the local economy.

“If you ask kids where food comes from, they’ll tell you it comes from the grocery store,” says Anthony Carver, the Grainger County extension agent from the University of Tennessee.

Ritter Farms in Rutledge is a favorite stop and easy to find, just look for their signature red barn on Highway 11. It’s available for tour during the farming season from May to November. Plan to eat lunch here following the tour, and you’ll enjoy a hearty plate of fried green tomatoes, beans, cornbread, and turnip greens, served family-style. Don’t miss their market, where you can stock up on preserves and yummy apple butter.

In Carver’s view, it’s important to educate kids about the ways in which farming is tied to feeding the nation.

“Less than two percent of the (world) population feeds the rest,” Carver explains. “That’s why we have agritourism, to support the economy — and to stay in business.”

Unique heritage and geography
Traveling north from Rutledge, I head for Huntsville, Tenn., to visit the Museum of Scott County, a state heritage site. The museum, dedicated to reenacting pioneer life, is a 3,000-square foot log cabin on two acres next to the Scott County High School. What makes this museum exceptional is that it’s completely built, run, and maintained by high school students as part of the county’s drop-out prevention program.

In an effort to produce a well-rounded learning experience, the school curriculum is tied to museum activities. The social studies class might research local history to create museum brochures, while the English class proof-reads. The grounds, which include replicas of settler cabins, farming stalls, and Cherokee huts, have all been assembled by the students.

“It brings history alive,” says museum director and high school teacher, Gary Sexton. “It’s the only project of its kind in the country.”

The teens have also participated in archeological digs, uncovering countless arrowheads and artifacts. Museum displays contain donated and uncovered artifacts reflecting the complex history of the Cumberland Plateau. In addition, students also provide demonstrations of everyday tasks performed during settler life, including sheep shearing, blacksmithing, rail splitting, and sorghum making.

Every September they have a heritage festival where visitors can watch these various “old world” tasks, play games and enjoy authentic Southern cooking.
While visiting Scott County, don’t miss the Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area. It encompasses 125,000 acres along the Cumberland Plateau across Tennessee and Kentucky. Over time, the

Cumberland River has carved the sandstone of this plateau into the striking cliffs, arches and chimneys you’ll see throughout the park. Families can experience this area in a variety of ways, from hiking trails and horseback riding, to canoeing and wildlife viewing.

“We’ve hiked all over the (country) and we had no idea it was so beautiful (here),” says Carol McVeigh of Lawrenceburg Indiana, hiking the trails with her husband Joe and their Afghan hound, Angelique. “It’s just beautiful and the quality of the trail upkeep is excellent.”

Officials of the recreation area recently integrated a program digitizing the entire park. This allows visitors access to a virtual map of the entire area and the ability to print maps from touch screen stations.

For extra fun, take the kids to Possum Trot, an authentic re-creation of an 1800s frontier town. Here you can step back in time to learn about hunting and cowboy life. Go off-trail with an escorted ATV ride through the craggy terrain (just be sure the kids wait to eat until after the ride).

Rolling hills, Blue Smoke and Black Bears
Cherokee people named the Great Smoky Mountains “the land of blue smoke.” Cherokee legend has it that in order to teach a lesson to the fighting nations who once roamed these mountains, the Creator turned the people into moss and laid smoke across the land, which will remain until the world has peace.

A great way to end your off-the-beaten-path tour of East Tennessee is in Townsend, which calls itself “The Peaceful Side of the Smokies.” You’re within a few miles of Cades Cove, the Smokies most popular destination. While Townsend is less trafficked than Gatlinburg, Cades Cove bustles as visitors drive the narrow, one-way road that loops 11 miles around the cove valley at the southern end of Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

Most people don’t mind the wait because the wildlife encounters are the trade-off. We were lucky enough to spot black bears eating in trees and digging for grub worms in the various fields. Visitors frequently encounter deer, birds, and even otters while passing through here. Community and park officials are meeting this year to decide whether or not to restrict traffic in order to reduce congestion and pollution. A healthier bet is to rent a bike and ride the loop, but if you really want to relax, choose a hayride instead of your car to reduce congestion, plus you get the added benefit of a ranger guide.

Head underground
Tennessee has over 700 known caves. Estimated at 20 to 30 million years old, Tuckaleechee Caverns in Townsend are revered as the greatest site under the Smokies. Beat a welcome retreat from the summer heat by descending into the caverns which stay a constant 58 degrees year-round. Tours run just over an hour and showcase brilliant formations of stalactites and stalagmites. At the grand finale, sit on stone benches and experience the inky blackness; then watch as a symphony of lights illuminate the rocks from all angles, creating mysterious shadows.



July 2008